American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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North America, United States, Wyoming, Wyoming Rockies, Teton Range

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1938

Wyoming Rockies Teton Range

Although the 1937 climbing season in the Tetons was shorter than usual (June 24th-September 17th), a large number of mountaineers visited the region, concentrating upon Grand Teton and Mt. Owen. Six of the eight established routes on Grand Teton were utilized by various parties, while on Mt. Owen four of the five known routes were employed. With the exception of Mt. Wister all of the major peaks were climbed. The annual outing of the Mazamas was held in late July, followed by the outing of California Alpine Club in early August, both groups encamping at String Lake, with a total of more than 100 climbers and hikers. The guide service was again conducted by Paul Petzoldt, assisted by Eldon Petzoldt and Glenn Exum.

Only one original climb was reported—an ascent of Grand Teton from the head of Teepe Glacier on the S. W. side by William House, Paul Petzoldt and the writer. Free of ice in late season, the route proved less difficult than anticipated and required little more than five hours from timberline. Descent was made by the E -S. buttress, the route differing in part from that of 1931.

A third ascent of the N. corner of Grand Teton (Fryxell- Underhill, 1931) was accomplished by Adams Carter and Paul Petzoldt; and the ascent of Mt. Owen by the N. arête (Fryxell- F Smith, 1931) was repeated by Jack Durrance, Percy Rideaut and George Sheldon. The approach to the arête, however, was made from the N. shoulder of Grand Teton, involving a first crossing of Gunsight Notch.

Phil D. Smith.

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