American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Mount Everest

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1937

Mount Everest. The 1936 expedition to Everest was particularly unfortunate in its weather conditions. It avoided the long and circuitous route of approach of the former expeditions over the Phari Plain by going through Northern Sikkim and arrived at base camp with the personnel in good condition for a serious attempt on the mountain. They were, however, continally dogged with bad weather in placing their climbing camps and although a camp was placed on the North Col and occupied, the early advent of the monsoon caused its evacuation, and an accident with nearly fatal results, in trying to reopen the route to the North Col, finally determined the abandonment of the whole attempt.

At the moment of going to press word comes from the Alpine Club (London) that permission has been granted for another Everest expedition in 1938. Shipton and Tilman leave in March for the Shaksgam (N. of Karakoram), Smythe and Oliver a bit later for Garhwal.

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