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Europe, Austria, Caucasus, German Caucasus Expedition, 1936

German Caucasus Expedition, 1936. The German expedition entered the central Caucasus by way of the Baksan Valley and Adyl Su to the Shcheldi Valley where camp was made on the side moraine of a glacier.

Bshedykhtau was traversed July 18th-21st. The Shcheldi Glacier was crossed and Merzbacher’s Point (3594 m.) ascended by the W. side, with bivouac on top. The ridge was then traversed over three peaks to the main summit, the descent being made by the N. ridge. Shchurovski Peak and Tshatuintau were ascended by a new route on the W. face of the latter. Shchelditau was climbed by a new route on the N. face and descended on the S. face to Betsho Pass. Little Ushba was climbed on August 2nd, a second ascent. Ushba was climbed by another route on the W. face from a bivouac at the foot of the face to the saddle between the two peaks, from which the N. peak was climbed and the N. ridge descended to the Shcheldi Glacier. Lazgatau and Ullutau-tshana were traversed in a four-day trip, the former being ascended from the S. E. and the ridge traversed over numerous peaks, mostly new ascents. The E. ridge of the latter peak was descended to Mestia Pass. Khrumkolbash and Termenbash, two new ascents were traversed in a three-day trip. Sulukolbash was climbed solo by way of the S. E. ridge. Ushba was traversed for the third time in its history by four German climbers from Munich in August, 1936.