American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Europe, Austria, Caucasus, Austrian Caucasus Expedition, 1936

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1937

Austrian Caucasus Expedition, 1936. An Austrian party under Prof. Rudolf Schwarzgruber made a number of climbs in the central Caucasus around the Bezingï Glacier.

Tikhtengen was climbed by the W. ridge on July 15th and descended by the E. ridge, a bivouac being required on the return. Skhara was climbed by the route of Cockin on the first ascent, on July 20th. The next day the mountain was traversed to the W. peak and the night spent in an ice-cave. The following day a traverse was made in poor weather to the rock-tower overlooking the Janga cirque, where a second bivouac was made. On July 23rd, the E. peak of Janga was ascended and the night spent in an ice-cave near the summit, after which the descent was effected by the Merzbacher route. Gestola was climbed in a four-day trip August 2nd-5th requiring three bivouacs. Dykhtau, Mirshirgitau, Krumkolbash, Koshtantau traverse. This stupendous traverse was accomplished in two parts. In five days the ascent was made of Dykhtau by Mummery’s route, the W. and main peaks of Mirshir-gitau traversed and descent made to Misses Kosh because of bad weather and lack of food. Three days later the balance of the traverse was made in a four-day trip. Katuintau and Adishtau were traversed in a four-day trip.

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