Everest 1935-36

Permission for a renewed attempt on the world’s highest mountain was granted last year but came too late to put a group in the field in time for a spring attempt before the monsoon. It was felt, however, that in order to leave the way open for an attempt in 1936 some activity should be started right away. For this reason a small group, under the leadership of E. E. Shipton, was despatched to Tibet to make a reconnaissance, study the weather conditions inthe fall climbing season, and spend the winter in Tibet in order to be ready for an early start this spring. This party had remarkable success in climbing some twenty peaks over 20,000 ft., of which the highest was Kartaphu, 23,640 ft., and second highest Pumori 23,190 ft. They also discovered the body of Capt. Maurice Wilson, lost on a solo attempt to climb the mountain in 1934, at 23,000 feet, about 300 feet below Camp III, and with it his diary and camera. The 1935 party did not, however, spend the winter in Tibet as planned, but the new group composed of Hugh Ruttledge, leader; E. E. Shipton, F. S. Smythe, P. Wyn Harris, E. G. Kempton, E. H. Wigram, P. R. Oliver, J. M. Gavin, G. N. Humphreys, C. Warren, C. J. Morris, and W. R. Smith-Windham, left England in February for a new attempt.