A sign that the Himalayas are becoming a climbing group adaptable to small parties was the fine attempt on Peak K 36 in the Saltoro Range of the Karakorum. A party consisting of James Waller, Dr. J. S. Carslaw, Rowland Brotherhood and John Hunt with two Darjeeling porters, Palden and Dawa Thondup, reached a height of over 24,500 ft. and were only defeated by weather. In spite of the fact that the mountain was not well mapped and the approaches unknown, this party, by dividing into three groups for a reconnaissance, discovered a new glacier (the Likah) leading them directly to a position under the S. E. ridge, whence a feasible route of ascent up the east face was found. A series of camps was laid up to 22,000 ft. and the final effort made from that point, a mistake which was not realized until too late. It was planned to have the climbing party do much of the carrying but, owing to the poor quality of the local porters it was necessary for them do more of it than was expected. The final assault, hindered by the growing exhaustion of the climbers, was repulsed by storm. It was a gallant attempt and came close to success. If we are to see much mountaineering in the Himalaya it is to this type of climbing that we must look, for not everyone is endowed with the means for financing large expeditions.

Another Himalayan attempt made by a small party was that of Capt. R. J. Lawder and Lieut. D. B. N. Hunt on Istor-o-nal (24,271 ft.) in the Hindu Kush. Here again bad weather and exhaustion forced the retreat of the party when within 200 ft. of the summit.