American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Caucausus, The Austrian Scientific Expedition

  • Notes
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1936

The Austrian Scientific Expedition. This group under the leadership of Prof. Hermann Mark, and comprising Peter and Josef Schintlmeister and Eugen Baroni went out primarily to make observations on the “heavy water” content of the glacial regions of the Caucausus. Such observations had already been made on the A letsch Glacier and at the Jungfraujoch, but it was desirable to confirm them in the heavily glaciated regions around Elbruz and in the Bezingi Valley. In the course of these investigations both summits of Elbruz were climbed and also three rock peaks southeast of Elbruz, one of which did not appear to have been climbed before. In Krugasor they were joined by Göttner and Vörgof the Munich party, and together journeyed to Misses Kosh in the Bezingi Valley. From here these two with the brothers Schmitlmeister made the ascent of Dykhtau by a new route over the northwest ridge. Descending by the north ridge the party met the Russian mountaineer Semenovsky who reached the summit the same day ; while the previous day during the ascent the Polish party had been on the summit. An attempt on Koshtantau was given up because of approaching storm, and operations moved to the eastern Caucausus where Kasbek was climbed.

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