American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Europe, Switzerland, Alps, Täschhorn, South Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1936

Täsclihorn; South Face. This wall was climbed for the second time on June 28th, 1935 by Alexander Taugwalder and Karl Biner. Starting from the Täschalp in a drizzle, the foot of the face was reached at 7 a.m. They started up the left bank of the great couloir and then shortly traversed right keeping to the right of the Lochmatter, 1906 route. The difficulties were mainly loose rock covered with fresh snow. They intended to cut out to the Mischabelgrat but finally determined to finish the climb and so moved left to the famous “corner’ or “chimney.” This was encased in ice and unclimbable, but the overhang was surmounted by a courtechelle and some extremely difficult climbing. Above this the only difficulty was an exposed slab. The summit was reached at 3.00 p.m. or 8 hours from the foot of the climb. Taugwalder considers that if a time free from stonefall were chosen, and with no fresh snow, this climb would be safe.

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