Europe, Alps, North Face of the Matterhorn

Publication Year: 1936.

North Face of the Matterhorn. This climb was repeated twice this past summer, a season favorable to its execution, the rocks being consolidated by much snow and ice. On July 16th and 18th, Josef Schmidbauer and Ludwig Leiss made the climb, spending two nights on the wall. Their total climbing time was 46 hours. This was the second ascent. On July the 24th, Ur. Arthur Bauer with the guide Hermann Steuri of Grindlewald, repeated the climb, leaving the Hörnli hut at 0.45 a.m. and arriving on the Italian summit at 1.45 p.m. or 13 hours elapsed time. The difference in time speaks for itself as the second party found the mountain in poorer condition than the two Germans. There is still something to be said in favor of good guides.