Asia, Himalayas, International Himalaya Expedition

Publication Year: 1935.

International Himalaya Expedition. Prof. and Mrs. G. O. Dyhrenfurth again led an expedition to the Himalaya, composed this time of Marcel Kurz, Dr. Winzeler, André Roch, James Belayeff, Hans Ertl, Albert Höcht, Piero Ghiglione and a number of cinematographers, the expedition being financed to some extent through the resultant film. The necessity of subordinating climbing to photography resulted in fewer climbs being made than might otherwise have been possible, but the members of the expedition need make no apologies on this score. Kurz was unfortunately injured on the way in to the Baltoro Glacier, the scene of this summer’s activities. At attempt was made on Hidden Peak, and the Golden Throne and the four summits of Mt. Queen Mary successfully ascended. On August 3rd, Höcht and Ertl with the porter Hakimbek, and Prof. and Mrs. Dyhrenfurth with the porter Rodji made the first ascent of the west peak of Queen Mary (24,370 ft.), while on the same day Ghiglione, Roch and Belayeff made the first ascent of the east peak of the Golden Throne (24,000 ft.). A week later, August 10th, the latter party made the first ascent of the middle peak of Mt. Queen Mary (24,190 ft.). Two days after this climb, Höcht and Ertl made another climb and reached for the first time the east peak (24,350 ft.) and the main summit (25,174 ft.) of Mt. Queen Mary.