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Albert R. Ellingwood, 1888-1934



Albert R. Ellingwood died on May 12th, following an operation. He was born forty-six years ago in Cedar Rapids, Iowa, attending Colorado Springs High School and Colorado College. In 1910 he was awarded the Rhodes Scholarship for Colorado, and attended Merton College, Oxford, from 1910 to 1913, taking the degree of Bachelor of Civil Law in 1913. After a year at the University of Pennsylvania, he taught Political Science at Colorado College for five years. In 1918 he was given the degree of Ph.D. from the University of Pennsylvania. From 1919 to 1927 he was professor of Political Science and Social Science at Lake Forest College, Ill. From 1927 until his death, he was professor of Political Science at Northwestern University and also during summer sessions he was professor of Political Science at the University of Illinois and the University of Southern California. Ellingwood’s talents as an administrator as well as a teacher were soon recognized and he was Dean of the Department of Business Administration, Lake Forest College, and since 1931 he was Assistant Dean of the College of Liberal Arts at Northwestern University. According to newspaper reports he was Dean of the College of Liberal Arts at Northwestern University at the time of his death. He was a member of the Chicago Government Planning Commission.

Those interested in climbing in Colorado cannot fail to recognize that Dr. Ellingwood contributed more to the sport of mountaineering in Colorado than any other person. Among his achievements were the following first ascents : Crestone Peak, Crestone Needle, and Kit Carson (1916) ; Lizard Head, Pigeon and Turret (1920), and the Bishop Rock in Platte Canon (1924). Many of these climbs were considered impossible before Ellingwood's ascents. In accomplishing these ascents he was the first person to make any substantial use in Colorado of the proper rock climbing technique in the use of ropes and other safeguards. He also made many difficult ascents by new routes, or by routes not often used, such as Pagoda by the west ridge (1916), Blanca by the east face and north ridge (1916), Maroon by the south ridge (1919), North Maroon by the east ridge (1919), Evans by the north face (1920), North Maroon by the south ridge (1922), Maroon by the north ridge (1922), Crestone Needle by the east ridge (1925), Little Bear by the west ridge (1925), Crestone by the north ridge (1925), and Long’s Peak by the east face (1927). His climbs were not confined to the summer season, for he made an ascent of Mount Evans on snowshoes in March. 1916.

Ellingwood was one of the three men who had climbed all of the officially named 14,000-ft. peaks in Colorado. He was also one of the many college men who have both surveyed and climbed our mountains since the 1860’s ; the only heights which we have for Crestone Needle, Mount Columbia and Little Bear are figures obtained by his careful triangulation.

His achievements in Wyoming were of no less importance than in Colorado. Among his first ascents were Middle Teton and South Teton (1923), Mt. Helen, Turret Peak and Mt. Warren (1924), and Knife Point, Peak F 3 and Sacajawea (1926). Other noteworthy ascents included the third ascent of the Grand Teton, the third ascent of Gannett Peak, the highest in Wyoming, the second ascent of Mt. Helen, the second ascent of Mt. Moran, and the only ascent of Frémont Peak by any route other than the one used by Lieutenant Frémont in 1842. Ellingwood was devoted to the Rockies and his only climbing outside of Colorado and Wyoming was in California in 1928.

He impressed all people who came to know him with his pleasing personality and unusually fine mind. He was a good companion and will be missed by all our members who were fortunate enough to climb with him.

J. L. J. H.