Mountaineering Expeditions in the Soviet Union During 1933

Interest in mountaineering and mountain exploration in the Soviet Union has been increasing from year to year. It is looked upon not only as a valuable form of recreation but also as an activity through which much scientific research can be conducted. Practically all the work is done under the joint auspices of the Society of Proletarian Tourism and the Academy of Sciences. The following information was obtained in Tiflis and Moscow from reports and lectures as well as through personal interviews with members of the various expeditions. It is believed that this data in its important details are substantially correct.

During 1933 many first-class ascents were made in the various mountain ranges including the Caucasus, Altai, Tian Shan, and Pamir. Soviet citizens who now include among their number several expert alpinists accounted for nearly all the big climbs accomplished.

The Caucasus. Winter ski expeditions into the highest sections of the Caucasus which were begun in 1931 were continued during the winter of 1932-33. Three mountain skiing expeditions composed of both men and women were sent from Tiflis into the main range. The first of these visited the districts of Racha and Lower Svanetia in the Central Caucasus, the second crossed the main range of the western part of the Eastern Caucasus in Khevsu-ratia, and the third visited South Ossetia.

Other ski expeditions crossed the main ridge of the Central Caucasus by way of the Sharivsek, Mestia, and Betsho Passes, all over 11,000 ft. high. One of these also reached the saddle between the two peaks of Mt. Elbruz at an elevation of 17,450 ft. —the first time this has been done in winter and doubtless one of the highest winter climbs ever made.

In June an expedition climbed Kasbek using skis to an altitude of 14,700 ft. During the summer it is reported that 110 persons reached the summits of Mt. Elbruz (18,470 ft. and 18,347 ft.). The majority of these were red army commanders who in one gigantic party of fifty-seven scaled the mountain en masse.

Both Koshtantau (16,880 ft.) and Shkara (17,038 ft.), among the highest as well as the most difficult peaks in the Caucasus, were climbed for the first time by citizens of the Soviet Union or of the former Russian Empire. Tetnuld (15,918 ft.) was climbed twice and the very difficult ascent of Tiktingen (15,918 ft.) was almost accomplished by two men who reached a point within two hundred feet of the summit. The three peaks of Dongusorun (all over 14,000 ft.) were also reached. Many other climbs were made during the summer, including a number of first ascents.

Two parties of foreign alpinists visited the Caucasus in 1933. A French group attempted Koshtantau by the northeast side but failed to get above an altitude of about 15,000 ft. A Swiss party reached the South Peak of Ushba (15,409 ft.), still considered one of the finest and hardest climbs in the Caucasus despite the fact that it has now been done at least four times. One of the members of this group was killed earlier near the summit of Doppach (14,420 ft.).