American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Russia, Caucasus, A French Expedition

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1934

A French Expedition, sponsored by the G. H. M. and the C. A. F., was also in the Caucasus this past summer. It was composed of Raymond Gaché, Jacques Lagarde, Robert Tézenas du Montcel, and Lucien Valluet. They arrived in Naltshik on August 8th and their objective was to explore the peaks in the vicinity of the Ullu-Auz Glacier. Their first climb was a long traverse which resulted in the first ascent of Tiutium-Bash (East Peak 4,500 m.; West Peak 4,551 m.), Gortü-Bash (4,437 m.), and Breithorn (4,246 m.). Two of the party with a Russian, G. Marietsky, then made the first ascent of Kilmet-Bash (3,906 m. and 3,965 m.), while the other two effected the first ascent of the square tower of Koshtantau and were in a fair way to make a new route on this latter peak by way of the north ridge when they were forced to turn back on account of an accident which fortunately was not serious.

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