Europe, Italy, Alps, Grosse Zinne

Publication Year: 1934.

Grosse Zinne. The north face of this forbidding pillar, one of the most impossible looking walls in the Dolomites, has at last succumbed to the “hardware” technique that in the Eastern Alps goes under the name of rock-climbing. A number of attempts have been made but on August 10th the guides, Josef Dimai and Dibona, with 90 pitons, 50 karabiner, over 750 ft. of climbing rope and 500 ft. of small line, made an attempt which placed them fairly high up on the wall. The next day they were joined by the amateur, Emilio Comici, and the guides, Angelo Dinai and Antonio Verzi, who brought with them a large number of pitons and karabiner and over 400 ft. more rope. The combined party was again forced back and the guides, Dibona and Verzi, gave up in disgust, but nothing daunted, the remaining three set out again on August 13th and after a night spent on the wall succeeded in completing the ascent. A German paper chronicles the climb as “die Erste Durchnagelung” of the north wall and we are inclined to agree that probably the conquerors are better blacksmiths than rock-climbers. They should certainly be made to join the quarry- men’s union. Their work must, however, have been of an inferior quality as the two brothers, Peter and Paul Aschenbrenner, who repeated the ascent a month later, September 11th-12th, reported that many of the pitons were unusable owing to their looseness.