North America, Canada, British Columbia, New Traverse from Hermit Hut

Publication Year: 1934.

Mt Wheeler (11,023 ft.). Third ascent; first from Glacier Circle hut. Miss G. Engelhard. Ern. Feuz. Leaving Glacier Cirde hut at 5.00 a.m., September 13th, 1933, the lower tongue of Deville glacier was followed to foot of icefall, thence taking to cliffs on east face of Mt. Selwyn, climbing for about 2,000 ft. of good ledges and couloirs. Deville névé reached at 7.00 a.m. Thence we proceeded southward across it, past the Bishops Range, where we turned west and made our wav up long, easy snow- slopes to the Wheeler Kilpatrick col; thence up the north arête of Mt. Wheeler to the summit. Total time of ascent, 4 hrs. 55 m. Gorgeous panorama of Battle and Purity Groups. In descent we crossed Deville glacier just above the icefall, descending by a crack in the cliff on the Mt. Topham side, affording pleasant rock work. Time for descent, 4 hrs.

The ascent is an easy one, well worth while for its scenic beauty. The two previous ascents were made from bivouacs near Black glacier.