American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Colorado, Mt. Sneffels Region, Mt Sneffles

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1933

T. M. Griffiths, Gordon Williams, and the writer, alternating the lead, made the first complete ascent of the north face of Mount Sneffels (14,143 ft.). The right couloir of the north face was followed to its junction with the northwest couloir, the latter being followed to its end, then the summit cliffs were taken directly to the top. Seven hours were required for the ascent which was almost entirely done on snow. The descent over the usual southeast face route resolved the climb into the first traverse of the peak.

The older partial route up the north face of Sneffels was modified by Dave Lavender, Miss Martha Bloom, and the writer (leader). This route covers the left couloir of the north face, is followed by an easy traverse of the east face just under the start of the east arête, and is finished up the last 800 feet along the southeast face route.

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