American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Europe, Matterhorn

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1932

Matterhorn: Despite the bad weather prevailing during the summer of 1931, or rather perhaps because of it, two outstanding climbs were effected on this peak, known far and wide for its distinctive form and its impression of inaccessibility. The tremendous north face was climbed in two days of supreme effort by the brothers Franz and Anton Schmid of Munich. That they were able to make the ascent without being annihilated by falling rocks is perhaps attributable to the great amount of snow on the face, which helped to cement the loose stones. They were, however, subjected to considerable bombardment, and it may fairly be considered an act of Providence that they were able to step out upon the summit at 2.00 P.M. on August 1st after a day and a half of continuous climbing. They spent the night roped to a tiny ledge in the middle of the face, and after completing the climb were stormbound at the Solvay Hut for several days.

Later in the year, October 15th, an Italian party composed of Sig. E. Benedetti, with the guides Louis Carrel and Maurice Bich effected the ascent of the south face under considerable difficulty and danger.

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