American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Mt. Oubliette (First Ascent)

  • Climbs And Expeditions
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  • Publication Year: 1932

Mt. Oubliette (10,100 Feet) (First Ascent)

This peak of the Ramparts in Tonquin Valley was ascended for the first time July 27th, 1932, by Max M. Strumia and William R. Hainsworth accompanied by the Swiss guide Hans Fuhrer. Leaving Memorial Cabin on Penstock Creek at 2.30 A.M. they crossed Para Pass and traversed ledges of Paragon Peak to the col between Oubliette and Dungeon peaks. From there they attacked the ridge but after some very difficult crack climbing and traverses they encountered a vertical pitch of 100 feet with an overhang which took two hours for the leader to overcome. At this juncture, a storm broke upon them and lightning hit the crags above, so they were forced to desist. Avoiding some of the earlier difficulties by roping off, they made their way back to the hut at 1 A.M. Next day they returned to the attack leaving camp at 3 A.M. They traversed ledges on both Paragon and Oubliette loaded with fresh snow and finally gained a point near the col between Oubliette and Dungeon. Very steep climbing with pitons and a 10-foot roping off into a notch where they left the rope, brought them to a ledge which they traversed back to the Paragon side of the peak. They were now above the 100 foot vertical pitch and succeeded in gaining the summit at 3.30 P.M., but the melting new snow made the return by their morning’s route too risky, so they roped off down the 100 foot pitch. This took one hour. The return to camp was effected at midnight. They report the climb as the most difficult made by them in the Rockies and surely one of the most difficult of the whole chain.

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