American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Fairweather

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1931

An American Alpine Club party consisting of William S. Ladd, Allen Carpé and Terris Moore, accompanied by Andy Taylor, left Juneau on April 4th to attempt Mount Fairweather. Heavy storms prevented a landing at Sea Otter Bight, as had been done in 1926, and forced them to return to Lituya Bay where they arrived April 11th. They had not seen the mountain by April 14th. Rather than risk indefinite delay on account of the weather (they had had two weeks of storm by April 18th) they decided to land provisions and equipment at Lituya Bay and back-pack fifteen miles along the ocean beach to the glacier at Cape Fairweather, adopting this glacier as an approach to the mountain. The Washburn route of 1930 did not hold sufficient snow for sled travel. They will again try the same ridge of Fairweather utilized in 1926. Lituya Bay will serve as the base and they expect that six weeks will be consumed in the ascent and return to that place—about June 1. The party is on the scene more than a month earlier than in 1926 and should obtain much more favorable snow conditions than they then encountered. May we not hope that after such a disappointment at the outset, the weather will relent and give our enterprising fellow members a real chance to subdue this very difficult peak? All success to them!

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