AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Pigeon Spire

(2) Bugaboo Group

Pigeon Spire, approximately 10,200 ft. First ascent, August 6. E. Cromwell, P. Kaufmann. From camp at head of Bugaboo Creek, to plateau of Bugaboo glacier, thence up moraine to foot of Snowpatch Spire. Ascended glacier north of Snowpatch Spire to col between it and Bugaboo Spire, crossed neve to the south ridge of Pigeon Spire, and followed it to a vertical pitch, traversing on the northwest face to the north ridge five minutes below summit. Descended by same route to glacier, and returned to camp via southwest arm and main stream of Bugaboo glacier. Ascent, 7 hours, 30 minutes. Descent, 3 hours, 35 minutes.