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North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Mt. Forbes

(4) Forbes-Lyell Group

Mt. Forbes, 11,902 ft. First ascent of north ridge, July 12. E. Cromwell, P. Kauf mann. From bivouac on left bank of Mons glacier. Ascended north glacier to the saddle at foot of ridge, which was found to be steep and heavily corniced. One gendarme gave considerable trouble. Ascent, 7 hours, 30 minutes. Descent to camp, via west ridge, 5 hours, 40 minutes.1

1 Mr. O. E. Cromwell reports that the north arête of Mt. Forbes was a sensational snow climb comparable to the Bionnassay-Dôme du Goûter ridge of Mont Blanc. It was very steep and they had to pass over huge cornices. It is only possible at all when the condition of the snow is exactly right. One gendarme proved very difficult. On the west face the snow was so precipitous that one could not walk on it.—Ed. A.A.J.