American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Tetons, Teepe's Pillar, Teton Range, First Ascent

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1931

Teepe’s Pillar, Teton Range, First Ascent

Messrs. K. A. Henderson and R. L. M. Underhill made the first ascent of this peak on July 18th, 1930. Leaving camp at Amphitheatre Lake at 5.30 a.m., the usual route to the Teton glacier was followed and the left arm of the glacier ascended to the col at its head. There is some danger from stonefall here and the rocks to the right, ascending, should be followed as most of the stones come from the rotten rock on the other side of the glacier. The col leads onto Teepe’s glacier and from there a route was taken to the left, to strike the rocks at their lowest point, on theeast side of the peak. Nailed boots were left there and sneakers used for the rest of the climb. Commencing at 8.15 abrupt slabs were followed for several hundred feet into a chimney and under an overhang. The overhang was surmounted to the left, the leader being assisted by the second man. Another smaller overhang a hundred feet higher was surmounted to the left without any difficulty. The way then led onto the south or southeast face up which it zigzagged, the easiest way being chosen. The final bit was up the southwest ridge to the summit, which was reached at 10.10. The descent, which took an hour and a half, was made by the same route. The proper chimney at the start may be recognized by the black rock of the overhang and its apparent impossibility. There is also some wet grass just beneath the overhang. A very interesting climb, reasonably difficult.

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