American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Himalaya

  • Notes
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1930

There appears to be a renaissance of interest in the Himalaya. Last summer a German expedition from Munich attempted Kan- chenjunga and was only prevented from reaching the top by the onset of bad weather, when they had overcome the greatest difficulties. A new and much larger expedition has just left under the leadership of Prof. Dyhrenfurth and composed of Austrians, Germans, and English to attempt the mountain again. The present plans are to attack from the east, by way of the Zemu Glacier which is the same route of approach as that used by the Bavarians last year. It is expected to place the base camp near the Green Lake on the left bank of the glacier and work up a series of high camps from there. Profiting by the experience of last year’s party, some 4,000 feet of rope has been taken, in the expectation that it will be necessary to rope up a considerable portion of the northeast ridge to make it possible for loaded coolies.

The Bavarian expedition, led by Dr. Bauer, included young climbers from the Munich section of the German and Austrian

Alpine Club. After three weeks of herculean efforts, they attained an elevation of 24,600 feet on the long ice ridge which descends from the main north ridge of Kanchenjunga to the Zemu Glacier. From here to the summit, prospects appeared excellent, but they were forced to abandon the attempt by a snow storm which dropped no less than six feet of snow, and they considered themselves fortunate to be able to come out safely.

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