Activities of Members

Publication Year: 1930.

Members are urged to send to the Secretary a record of their climbs, together with any new information relative to the regions visited.

A number of our members attended the 1929 Annual Camp of the Alpine Club of Canada at Rogers Pass, B. C., from which the adjacent peaks of the Selkirks were ascended. Unfortunately, the weather did not permit the climb of Mt. Sir Donald by the northwest arête.

Stephen H. Hart made the first ascent of Mt. Lindberg, (12,000 ft.) in the Colorado Rockies.

Georgia Engelhard spent her vacation in the Canadian Rockies, making climbs of Mts. Hungabee, Biddle, Huber, Victoria, Lefroy, Sir Donald, and other peaks.

After making the first ascent of Mt. Sir Alexander, Newman D. Waffl, Andrew J. Gilmour and Helen I. Buck climbed Mt. Chown (2nd ascent); an unnamed peak (10,200') northwest of Barricade Mt. (second ascent), and others in the Canadian Rockies.

Dean Peabody, Jr., and Marjorie Hurd, with the party of the Appalachian Mountain Club, under leadership of Robert L. M. Underhill, camped in the Tonquin Valley and travelled by pack train to the Mt. Robson region. Mts. Geikie, Bastion and Paragon were ascended and a traverse of Mts. McDonnell and Simon made. The weather did not permit an attempt on Mt. Robson, but Mts. Rearguard, Resplendent and Whitehorn were ascended.

Lincoln O’Brien led a party of the Harvard Mountaineering Club in the Alps and made guideless climbs of the Weisshorn, Rothhorngrat, and guideless traverse of the Matterhorn by the Zmutt Ridge; also climbs of Leiterspitze, Wellenkuppe, Breithorn by north face, Rimpfischhorn, traverse by north ridge; Weissmies, traverse by north ridge; Eiger by Mittellegi ridge; Jungfrau by east ridge and Aiguille du Peigne.

Noel E. Odell visited Norway and Sweden during July and August, making climbs on Galdhöppigen, Romsdalshorn (alone), Store Skagastölstind and (with Mrs. Odell) first ascent of north face of Dyrhang guideless.

Cary W. Bok visited the Eastern Alps, climbing Morteratsch, Piz Nair (traverse), Crasta Spinas (traverse) Torrone Oriental, Cima di Castello, Cima di Cantun.

John H. Strong ascended Mont Blanc, also Breithorn and Zinal Rothorn and traversed the Wellenkuppe and Obergabelhorn.

Mrs. James W. Alexander visited Chamonix and made climbs of Aiguille du Peigne, Aiguille du Midi, Grands Charmoz as well as traversing the Grepon.

John L. J. Hart made ascents of Mt. Princeton and Kit Carson Peak and a winter ascent of Mt. Audubon (13,223 ft.), all in the Colorado Rockies.

Allston Burr make these climbs in the Eastern Alps; Piz Corvatsch (solo), Piz Alv (solo), Piz d’Arias and Piz Cambrena (traverse from Diavolezza to Vadret Pass), Il Chapütschin, La Muongia, Piz Glüschaint from Coaz Hut, Ringelspitz from Fidaz.

Laurie R. Frazeur made a trip around the world on which she followed the Nile to its source and got within view of Mt. Kilimanjaro and Mt. Kenya and made a pony trip to 14,000 ft. elevation in Kashmir, India; and though it was not a mountaineering trip, she ascended Mt. Etna shortly after an eruption, also Mt. Fuji Yama.

Francis P. Farquhar ascended Seven Gables, Mt. Ritter and Mt. Lyell in the Sierra Nevada and has issued a publication on Mt. Olympus, also “The Story of Mt. Whitney” in the Sierra Club Bulletin, 1929.

Norman H. Read made winter ascents of the Jungfrau and Finsteraarhorn and is enthusiastic over the pleasures of winter mountaineering, telling of a ski-run from Jungfraujoch to Concordia Hut in 25 minutes.

Edwin Muller, Jr., has published a book entitled “They Climbed the Alps”, in which the exploits of the English pioneers are set forth in popular vein.

William Osgood Field spent some time in Switzerland, making climbs around the Jungfrau Joch and at Zermatt, for still and moving pictures. He showed his very remarkable films of ski-running and climbing as well as his pictures of the medieval structures in the district of Swanetia in the high Caucasus at the March meeting of the Alpine Club of Canada, in New York City.

Mary Jobe Akeley has published a book entitled “In the Land of his Dreams”, descriptive of the African travels of her late husband, Carl Akeley.

Dudley Tyler Smith made ascents of Mt. Wilson, Wilson Peak and Longs Peak in the Colorado Rockies and comments on the severity of lightning on these lofty summits.

Dr. Max M. Strumia after several explorative tours made the first ascent of the Dent D’Herens by the southeast face. He also climbed the Dent Blanche, traversed the Lyskamm, made the round tour of the Matterhorn, crossing the Furgg-joch and Col Tour- nanche, made guideless ascent of Mte. Rosa (Zumsteinspitze and Signalkuppe) and several solo climbs in the Valley of the Lys.

Rodney L. Glisan climbed Mt. Lyell in the High Sierras and other lesser peaks.

Norman Clyde climbed in the Sierra Nevada, the Selkirks and Canadian Rockies. In the Sierra Nevada he made new routes on Mt. Sill and Mt. Palisade and climbs on other adjacent peaks believed to be new.

Elizabeth Knowlton traversed the Matterhorn by the Zmutt Ridge, traversed the Mönch by Nollen, traversed the Schreckhorn by South Ridge and Anderson Ridge to Gleckstein Hut and traversed the Jungfrau by the east ridge.

Eleanor E. Bartlett and Eleanor S. Davis (now Mrs. George Edgar Ehrman) climbed in the California Sierra, ascending Mt. San Jacinto, Mt. Whitney and Mt. Muir.

A. C. Tate made walking trips in Glacier National Park and in the Canadian Rockies and climbed Mt. Hermann and Mt. Shuksan in Mt. Baker National Forest, Washington.

Rupert B. H. Bibby traversed the Meije in the Dauphiny Alps, also the Grands Charmoz and Grepon and the Clochers and Clochetons de Plan Praz at Chamonix.

Eaton Cromwell in June and July made the most of the fine weather by making numerous climbs on Mt. Blanc and its Aiguilles, and the Aiguilles Range, including traverse of Aiguille de Bionassey, Grepon, Mt. Maudit, via northeast ridge; Dent du Requin. His summer’s total was over 50 summits.

Thomas D. Cabot, on a pleasure trip to Santo Domingo and Colombia, undertook to explore Monte Loma Tina, which has for many years appeared on the maps of Santo Domingo as a summit of some 10,300 feet and hence the highest peak in eastern North America. No information could be obtained about the peak locally and after investigation and some exploration no such peak could be found, nor any elevation over 5,000 feet in its supposed locality. He is convinced that this peak does not exist. The highest peak in the Dominican Republic is Pico del Yaqui, which is some distance from the location given for Loma Tina and only about 9800 feet high. This still makes it the highest in the West Indies but there is nothing Alpine about it. He climbed Loma del Hato Quemado looking for Loma Tina but didn’t have time to try Pico del Yaqui. It has been climbed several times.

Walter L. Huber made ascents of The Tombstone, Mt. Senger, Seven Gables, Mt. Ritter and Cross Mt. in the Sierra Nevada of California.

During July, using Innsbruck as headquarters J. Monroe Thorington and Daniel Underhill visited various groups of the Eastern Alps. They first went to the Oetzthal, in which the earliest cartographical work on glaciers was accomplished, appearing on Ygl’s map of 1604. The ancient beds of the glacial lakes of Rofen and Gurgl, whose floods once caused great damage, were examined. Among the peaks ascended were Zückerhütl, Wilder Pfaff, Wildspitze, and Similaun.

Thorington then proceeded to the Zillerthal, crossing the Reichenspitze, Gams-scharte, Krimmler Törl, and Sonntagkopf to the Kürsinger hut. The Venediger was ascended, and return made by way of the Ober-Sulzbachthal and Pass Thurn to Innsbruck.

Underhill journeyed to the Oberland, and with Alfred Streich ascended the Mönch, Wetterhorn, and Aletschhorn.

Polly Prescott climbed in the Dolomites, French Alps and made rock climbs in Wales. Climbed Monte Cristallo, Tofana di Mezzo and other peaks about Cortina; Grands Charmoz and Grepon, and other Chamonix climbs and traversed La Meije.

Henry S. Hall, Jr., climbed the Grand Teton and in the Wind River Mts. made a traverse of Gannett Peak and a traverse of three small rock peaks just west of “Elsie” col. Later, in the Alps, he climbed the Trifthorn, Mont Blanc and the Grépon.