American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Activities of Members

  • Notes
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1929

Members are urged to send in a record of their climbs, together with any new information relative to the regions visited.

Cary W. Bok climbed in the Alps last summer, ascending the Mönch; also Piz Bernina and others in the Engadine district.

Helen I. Buck climbed Mts. Victoria, Lefroy, Mitre, Pinnacle, Hungabee, Edith and Louis in the Canadian Rockies; and Mts. Dome and Thompson in the Purcell Range.

Allen Carpe made a second ascent of Albreda Mtn., in the northern Gold Range, by a new route from the west. Access was from the Canadian National line one mile south of Clemina station.

Mrs. Julia R. Colt and Miss Julia Colt climbed together in the Alps. Mrs. Colt climbed the Dent du Géant, Grand Paradis, Grivola, and Monte Viso; Miss Colt, in addition, the Dent Blanche and the Zinal-Rothorn.

B. S. Comstock made a number of excursions at Arolla and Chamonix, including the Petite Dent de Veisivi, the Moine, and the Aiguille de l’M.

O. E. Cromwell, Dr. J. Monroe Thorington and Julian G. Hillhouse climbed in the Purcell Range, making first ascents of Mt. Earl Grey, Pharaoh Peak (east summit), and three unnamed peaks, a first traverse of Mt. Toby, and ascents of Jumbo, Commander and Cleaver.

A. R. Ellingwood was again active in the Sierra, climbing Black Kaweah, Russell, Whitney, Tyndall, and Junction Peak by the east ridge.

Francis P. Farquhar climbed Mt. Muir, in the Sierra; he has also completed a book on Mt. Olympus.

Bradley B. Gilman made the following ascents in the Alps: Grand Muveran (from Les Plans sur Bex, guideless), Diablerets (traverse from Pierre d’Or to Anzeindaz, guideless), Grands Char- moz (guideless), Grépon (traverse), Weisshorn (guideless), Riffel- horn (variant of Matterhorn Couloir, guideless), Pointe de Zinal (Schönbühlhütte to Col Durand, guideless), Trifthorn and Pointe de Mountet (Triftjoch to Cabane de Mountet, guideless), Besso (S.W. arête and traverse, guideless), Dent Blanche (Arête des Quatre Anes to Schönbühlhütte, guideless). Mr. Gilman is a member of the Harvard and the Yale Mountaineering Clubs, and was accompanied by Hassler Whitney, of the latter.

Dr. A. J. Gilmour climbed Mt. Edith, Mt. Victoria, Mt. Lefroy, Mt. Coleman, Wilcox Peak, and a peak near Nigel Pass, in the Canadian Rockies, and Mts. Dome and Thompson, in the Purcell Range.

Rodney L. Glisan visited Jasper and Mt. Robson National Parks with the Sierra Club parties and climbed Mts. Drawbridge, Clitheroe, Mumm, Titkana and Resplendent.

John L. J. Hart climbed Lliwedd by Craig-y-Aderyn (Wales).

Marjorie Hurd is one of an enterprising group affiliated with the Appalachian Mountain Club who have developed a number of excellent rock climbs in New England. Miss Hurd made three new climbs to Pamola and the Knife-Edge (Katahdin); also the east cliff of Mt. Hedgehog (Albany Intervale).

Joseph E. Johnson, with D. L. Busk, A.C. and Y.M.C., made ascents of Redoubt Peak and Mt. Casemate, Rampart Group, Canadian Rockies.

Elizabeth Knowlton made the climb of the Torre Grande, Cinque Torri group, near Cortina, by the south wall, the Meije (by arête de la Brêche) and Pic Gaspard (via Le Pavé). Miss Knowlton also climbed in Skye, including a new variant on Mallory’s Buttress on the Sron na Ciche.

Dr. W. S. Ladd reports the following list of climbs at Chamonix, Zermatt and Randa: Aiguille de l’M (north face), Le Brévent (southeast face), Clocher de Planpraz (traverse), L’Index, Petits Charmoz (traverse), Mt. Blanc, Mt. Maudit, Mt. Blanc du Tacul, Aiguilles Dorées (traverse), Le Peigne (traverse), La Nonne (traverse), Aiguille Verte (arête du Moine), Dent du Requin, Zinal-Rothorn (by Triftjoch), Lenzspitze-Nadelhorn- Stecknadelhorn (traverse).

Joseph N. LeConte climbed Mt. Thompson (second ascent) and North Palisade, in the Sierra.

Robert L. Lipman climbed Mt. Brewer, Sierra.

Charles B. Newhall conducted a pack train trip, in which Avis E. Newhall and Nathaniel L. Goodrich participated, through the Bighorn Mountains of Wyoming. The party made a guideless ascent of Cloud Peak (13,165 ft.) and a reconnaissance and partial ascent of Blacktooth (13,104 ft.), which they believe to be as yet unclimbed, reaching an elevation of 12,000 ft. on the north side.

Lincoln O’Brien assisted in opening up two new and excellent rock routes on Katahdin, also many rock climbs elsewhere in New England, including Willard, Cannon, Dog and Storm King Mts.

Miriam O’Brien climbed the Campanile Dimai (Pomagagnon Group), Tschierspitze (by Adang-Kamin), and the Campanile di Val Montanaia, in the Dolomites; also the Taeschhorn (Teufelsgrat, traverse), Rimpfischhorn (guideless), Petits Charmoz (traverse, guideless), Aiguille de l’M and Pic Albert (traverse, guide- less), Pic Gaspard (ridge from Le Pavé), Meije (traverse), Grépon (traverse), Aiguilles du Diable (first complete traverse).

Dr. John H. Strong climbed Piz Morteratsch, Piz Bernina, Weisshorn, Monte Rosa and Wetterhorn (Alps).

Dr. Max M. Strumia made first ascents of Mts. Ermatinger, Scott and Evans (Whirlpool Group), and of Mts. Charlton, Sampson, Warren, “Florence,” and The Thumb (Maligne Lake Group), in the Canadian Rockies. Survey stations Needle E. and Needle S., near Needle Peak, were also visited. All of these ascents were made without guides. Dr. Strumia climbed with W. R. Hainsworth at Maligne Lake, and with Dr. Thorington, Julian G. Hillhouse and W. R. Hainsworth in the Whirlpool.

A. C. Tate explored the Mission Range in the Montana Rockies, visiting Greywolf Lake and Glacier, High Park Lake, Goat Pass, Mountaineer Peak, Lost and Crystal Lakes.

Roger W. Toll has been appointed Superintendent of Yellowstone National Park.

Herman F. Ulrichs climbed in the now little visited Selkirks, making traverses (solo) of Leda, Castor and Pollux, and of Rogers Peak. He also made the following ascents in the Canadian Rockies, Purcell Range and Cascades: Mt. Assiniboine (guidless), traverse of Wonder Peak and Mt. Cautley (guideless), Mt. Bruce (first ascent by southeast ridge, guideless), Mt. Farnham (first ascent from west), Mt. Rainier (guideless).

Daniel Underhill made the following climbs in the Alps: Kleines Wellhorn, Kingspitz (Engelhörner), Grosse Windgälle, Tödi (traverse from Hüfi Glacier over west ridge, descent via Gliemspforte and Puntaiglas Glacier), Piz Bernina (traverse via Pizzo Bianco and Scharte, descent by Labyrinth of Morteratsch Glacier), Piz Roseg (traverse via Eselgrat).

Newman D. Waffl climbed the following in the Alps: Jungfrau (from Guggi), Mönch (traverse), Gross-, Hinter- and Klein- Fiescherhörner, Finsteraarhorn (descent to Strahlegg Hut), Eiger (Mittelegi Ridge, traverse), Dent Blanche (Viereselgrat, traverse), Trifthorn, Pointe du Mountet, Zinal-Rothorn (traverse), Taesch- horn, Dom (traverse), Matterhorn (traverse and retraverse via Carrel’s Galerie), Dent du Requin, Grépon, Aiguille de Bionassay (north face), Mt. Blanc, Mt. Maudit, Mt. Blanc du Tacul (traverse), Clocher and Clochetons de Planpraz, Aiguille du Plan.

Frank N. Waterman ascended Mts. Fay, Victoria, Coleman and Wilcox, in the Canadian Rockies, and Mts. Dome and “Dorothy,” in the Purcell Range.

A number of our members visited the Camp of the Alpine Club of Canada in the valley of Horsethief Creek, below the Lake of the Hanging Glaciers, in the Purcell Range. A subsidiary camp was placed near the head of the South Fork of Horsethief Creek. The principal climbs from the main camp were Mts. Dome, Thompson, “Dorothy” and Bruce; from the subsidiary camp Mts. Farn- ham, Charles and St. Peter were ascended, all over 11,000 ft. One party, headed by A. A. McCoubrey, came into camp from the west, crossing the range by Earl Grey Pass.

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